she saw him arrive back safe and sound, she
was so happy that she removed the ulada from
her head and wrapped it around the head of the
horse he was riding.
Having concluded her story, Ismail Efe's daughter
declared, 'That is the story of the ulada which
you are asking to buy. The property of an efe
cannot be sold, but if you want it so much and
will take good care of it, let it be yours.'
Zafer Esi indeed takes good care of this gift.
Every so often he unwraps it carefully and airs
it so that the fabric does not rot. This and
the other items in his remarkable collection
are a precious legacy of the region where he
lives, whose traditional handcrafts and costumes
are rapidly disappearing in the modern age.
Saner Sen is a photographer