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BENEATH THE WAVES AT THE FISH MUSSEUM
2001 /FEBRUARY

It is difficult to imagine the sea without fish or fish without the sea, yet although Istanbul is a city so intertwined with the sea, fish are becoming increasingly scarce. You might not think so to look at the brightly lit fishmong'sgl stalls arrayed with gleaming bluefish, bonito, gilthead bream, sea bass, whiting, and turbot in Balikpazari, Kadikoy, Besiktas, Beykoz, Anadolu Kavagi, Rumeli Kavagi and Kumkapi. Anglers, however, are well aware of the true state of affairs, and at the fisherm'ssg shelter in Kocamustafapasa the mood is sad.Miserably they sit together, withdrawn from the noisy life of the great city around them, thinking only of the sea, in which they still rest their hopes. Their little close-knit community shares everything, including the geese, Tokat hens, coots and wild ducks which they feed.Since the 1960s one of their number, Haydar Deniz, has been collecting fish specimens. At first he kept the jamjars of preservation fluid at home, but as the collection grew he moved it to the shelter.

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BENEATH THE WAVES AT THE FISH MUSSEUM
2001 /FEBRUARY

Four of the storerooms were joined to form space for the specimens, which now fill the wall shelves.
Among the fish to be seen here were many we had never heard of, never mind seen: thin-lipped grey mullet, kelebekhorozbina (a species of blenny, Blennius ocellaris), ribbon fish (Cepola rubescens), torpedo fish (Torpedo marmorata), sand-smelt (Atherina hepsetus), ombrine (Umbrina cirrosa), and uzgunbaligi (Callionymus lyra). The specimens have all been caught in the Marmara, Black Sea, Aegean or Mediterranean.

With the addition of seashells, starfish, lanterns, communications equipment, ropes exhibiting different fisherm'sng knots, and even special ashtrays which conceal the glow of the burning cigarette, the room has been transformed into a small but fascinating museum. Any pride that Haydar Deniz might have felt at organising the museum singlehandedly is overshadowed by his sorrow at the decline of sea life over the past few decades.

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BENEATH THE WAVES AT THE FISH MUSSEUM
2001 /FEBRUARY
He recalls when pink and red coral could be seen in the Marmara Sea off Tuzla east of Istanbul; when huge sea bream could be caught with a type of rod known as kasik; when shoals of two-banded bream, chub mackerel, horse mackerel, mackerel and sword fish were to be found in the sea around Istanbul's islands; and when red mullet, tub gurnard and turbot were commonly found inshore at Florya.

Memories of that bygone abundance is indeed enough to bring tears to the eyes of any fisherman.
Showing us a jar containing a horse mackerel the size of a bonito, Haydar Deniz told us that following the earthquake of 17 August 1999, fish that had not been seen in the Marmara Sea for years reappeared: chub mackerel, gar-fish and gilthead bream. The theory is that the fissure created in the sea bed by the earthquake may have provided a new and safe habitat for these species.
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BENEATH THE WAVES AT THE FISH MUSSEUM
2001 /FEBRUARY
For over ten years now he has been searching in vain for a larger and more suitable building to house the museum, but several promises from people he has approached have so far come to nothing.
But his primary concern is still to enlarge the collection. All donations of fishing equipment that their owners no longer use are gratefully accepted, and he asks that fishmen all over Turkey get in touch with him when specimens of rare fish turn up in their nets. Increasing awareness among fishermen of marine life and the threats to its survival is one of Haydar Deniz's aims, and he hopes that his Fish Museum, modest as it is, has a contribution to make. The museum does not even possess a sign, but if you go to the district of Kocamustafapasa on the shores of the Marmara Sea a few kilometres west of Topkapi Palace, you can ask for the fisherm'ses shelter and see the fascinating collection here.

* Can Kiziltan is a freelance writer .

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