however, it is just a quiet provincial town,
where we stopped to enjoy the town's famous
cag kebab cooked over a wood fire. We next
took the steep road up to the village of Bulanik
to see the Georgian Church of Yeni Rabat. A
track leads to the church, which is situated
three kilometres beyond the village, in a remote
and quiet valley. Then we retraced our steps
back to the Berta Valley, leaving Ardanuç
Castle on a spur of Geçit Hill behind.
Continuing up the deep valley which slices like
a knife through the brown hills, we emerged
into a completely different green landscape.
When we arrived at Sögütlü
Castle about 40 kilometres further on, the houses
of Savsat could be seen on the lower
slopes of the Yalnizçam Mountains.
The road climbed in a series of hairpin bends
to the town, which nestles in greenery in typical
Black Sea fashion. Beyond the town the road
continues to climb up to Çam Pass at
an altitude of 2640 metres. High above the town
we pulled up to watch the breathtaking view
over Savsat below and the Karçal
Mountains in the distance.