The road from Cide to Doğanyurt was one of the most demanding but also loveliest stages of my journey, with constantly changing views of the sea and a profusion of wild flowers, including mauve and purple irises, clumps of violets, calendulas, and broom.
At Aydos I stopped for a meal and then set up camp near the lighthouse on Kavaklı headland. A northwesterly wind was blowing when I awoke. That morning I passed numerous villages whose local names were confusingly different from those on the map - Akbayır was Girvli, Doğanyurt Meset, İlyasbey Fakaz, Çayyaka Gübür, Aydos Sakallı and so on. Now I arrived at the loveliest village of any I had yet seen. This was Kayran, just beyond Doğanyurt, lying within sight of the sea in a deep valley through which a river ran, and surrounded by fields of maize, hazelnuts and cabbages. At lunchtime I swam on the outskirts of İnebolu, a town with many traditional houses similar to those of Safranbolu.
One steep hill after another took me to Gemiciler and a chat over coffee in the café, and then to Abana, one of Turkey's first seaside resorts.