Roads in central Anatolia stretch across the rolling steppe, whose soil lies hibernating under a blanket of snow, and in summer turn to gold under the bristling ears of wheat. Villages glimpsed in the distance and towns each much like another watch silent and impassive as the cars speed past. When you drive westwards out of Ankara on the road that leads to Eskişehir, Bursa and Afyon, a couple of hours later you begin to notice spires of rock to your right, reminding you of the Cappadocian landscape. These are the harbingers of the town of Sivrihisar, where the road divides; the right fork heading northwest and the left southwest for the Aegean and the Mediterranean.
Sivrihisar, or Pointed Fortress, is definitely not like any other provincial Turkish town. For one thing it is home to sights such as Sivrihisar Ulu Mosque, one of Turkey's rare and beautiful early mosques, Kızıl Kilise (the Red Church), and numerous traditional Turkish houses, mainly in the district of Yenice.