The winding Bosphorus strait lends legendary beauty to the city of Istanbul, with its hidden bays, hilly shores sprinkled with woods and gardens, and picturesque waterfront buildings. People have responded to its irresistible charm with countless poems and songs, celebrations, romantic meals, love stories and sweet memories. We are not all fortunate enough to live on the shores of the Bosphorus but the rest of us can at least enjoy outings there. These are quite different from visiting any other part of the city, since on the Bosphorus waterway nature and city are intertwined in an eternal dance. Here arose a culture and way of life with its own distinctive identity reflected in the traditional architecture, which is as much part of the magical Bosphorus scenery as the Judas trees with their purplish pink blossom. Waterfront houses, palaces and pavilions made of stone and wood gaze tranquilly at their own reflections in the blue water, creating a landscape in which nature and human beings have worked hand in hand.

Music was an important part of life on the Bosphorus in Ottoman times, particularly on moonlit summer nights when boating parties were got up among friends. Accompanied by musicians or singing and playing themselves, their voices and melodies echoing across the water were inspired by the natural symphony of the Bosphorus. The Bosphorus was also famous for its parks and meadows where people took excursions in fine weather. Such outings went far beyond merely taking fresh air and picknicking, but were festive occasions where the elegantly dressed parties were entertained by musicians and dancers. One of the most popular of these excursion places was the valley known as Göksu or Küçüksu (after the two rivers between which it lay) on the Asian shore. The Austrian historian Hammer, writing in the early 19th century, declared that 'Küçüksu is more extensive and lovelier than the heaven-like foothills of Kahlenberg in Vienn.

A double staircase whose sweeping curves join at the landing links the ground to the first floor, and here again we see the elaborate style of decoration fashionable at the time displayed on the bannisters in particular. The corner rooms facing the sea each have two fireplaces and those at the back one. The fireplaces are carved from Italian marble of different colours and different designs in each room. The palace was intended only for use when the sultan made excursions to Küçüksu, and was probably rarely if ever used for overnight stays, but only to enjoy days and evenings in this beautiful spot. At a time when insensitive new architecture is spreading like a rash across the Bosphorus hills, Küçüksu Kasir seems to have withdrawn into memories of the past, murmuring a nostalgic Bosphorus song.

* Ali Konyali is a photographer and cultural researcher